Yes, Chef! Feature: Zack Bordner

If your grandmother had a fabulous cocktail collection, a flair for vintage décor and a chef who could put a deliciously creative spin on her favorite comfort foods, her basement might look like Millie’s Cocktails in Cleveland’s Waterloo Arts District.

This cozy, 34-seat neighborhood gem is serving up creative drinkies, elevated comfort food and a generous helping of “grandma chic.”

Opened in March by Sarah Stocum and Emily Shantery after two years of successful pop-ups, Millie’s is named after Millard, a stray puppy who wandered into Emily’s life and planted himself at her feet. Apparently, he knew a good thing when he found it.

At the helm of the kitchen is Chef Zack Bordner, whose culinary philosophy combines a healthy respect for his Hungarian heritage, a passion for fresh ingredients and a willingness to put his own creative spin on Grandma’s recipes. His résumé includes stints at Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink in Shaker Heights (now closed) and teaching cooking classes at Stir Studio Kitchen in Hudson.

Zack has been involved with Millie’s since its pop-up days, eventually getting the opportunity to design the kitchen and develop the entire food program. 

Q. How old were you when you started cooking? I was about 8 years old. My parents and grandmother were always cooking, so food was a big part of growing up. At 16, I got my first restaurant job, working with a pressure roaster making chicken.

Q. Who has been the most influential chef in your life? Bonn Rossavong, our neighbor in the building and owner/chef at Doinks Burgers. He’s one of the most supportive people I’ve encountered in the industry. What I admire is the way he approaches food and other chefs. He shares ideas, asks for opinions and genuinely wants everyone to succeed. It’s about building relationships, supporting one another and making Cleveland’s food scene better.

Q. What’s the most memorable meal you’ve ever experienced, and why? I remember trying the fish cakes at Zhug in Cedar Fairmount. I took one bite and thought it was one of the most delicious things I’d ever tasted. It reminded me how exciting food can be when someone does something unexpected and does it exceptionally well.

Q. If you weren’t a chef, what career path would you have followed? I would have been a teacher. What’s interesting is that food has actually given me the opportunity to fulfill that desire. When I was teaching cooking classes at Stir Studio Kitchen, I loved developing recipes, connecting with people and explaining techniques to someone who might not have much cooking experience.

Q. What’s your most indispensable kitchen gadget? And your favorite ingredient? A big metal spoon. Not one of those long-handled ones, but a large, handheld metal spoon. It’s incredibly versatile. As for my favorite ingredient, that’s easy: salt. Without salt, you really don’t have much. It’s essential to bringing out the flavor in food.

To nominate a chef for Mimi’s “Yes, Chef!” column, please email Mimi@MimiVanderhaven.com. Millie’s Cocktails is located at 15515 Waterloo Road in Cleveland’s Waterloo Arts District, 440-730-1220.