Summer Thyme

The menu at Thyme The Restaurant changes with the seasons. Now is the perfect time to enjoy the award-winning cuisine of Executive Chef and owner John Kolar on the resplendent outdoor patio. Find out why Cleveland Magazine has elevated this trailblazer to its exclusive Tastemaker list for 2008.

By: Mimi Vanderhaven
Date: 06/27/2008
In the world of fine dining, awards and accolades are not given by accident.

Throughout our area there are a number of fabulous restaurants staffed by wonderful chefs. But few of them are owned by a rising star.

Thyme The Restaurant in Medina—is.

But it’s not because of the building.

Executive Chef John Kolar and his wife, Kathy, opened Thyme just under two years ago. It’s become a delicious fixture on the local dining scene ever since.

Thyme boasts a relaxing interior, decorated in the style that only an eclectic, independent restaurant can pull off. The beige linen tablecloths draped across ebony underskirts, beautifully complement the combination of Belgian chocolate brown on the ceiling and silvered mango, faux Venetian plaster on the walls.

It’s upscale; there’s no question about it. But Thyme has approachable overtones that add to the appeal, including the copper-topped bar—an anchor in the warm and inviting interior. Summer months might best be spent enjoying an exquisite meal alfresco on the secluded patio. The restaurant is tucked just far enough away from the hustle and bustle of the rest of North Court Street to retain a luxurious appeal.

No, it’s not the building.

It’s the chef.

When Chef John walks through his restaurant, it’s like a celebrity has arrived—and there’s a good reason for it.

Chef John has just been named one of Cleveland Magazine’s Tastemakers for 2008.

“It was an honor to be selected,” he beams. “I’m proud to know that the thing I love to do has brought recognition to the restaurant. I love to push the boundaries of what food should look and taste like, but I also know that people want to experience a creative meal they understand. We give them that.”

The list of Tastemaker honorees is comprised of 16 of Greater Cleveland’s most influential chefs. You could say it’s the equivalent of getting your face on a box of Wheaties, darling. These are the ladies and gentlemen who are blazing trails when it comes to creating a unique dining experience. The live food; they don’t simply cook it.

For John, it’s about offering big flavor and selections that feature fresh vegetables, fruits and meats that are in season. “I do everything I can to buy locally,” he says. “But I’m not a snob about it. Different kinds of foods are so accessible these days, I think it’s important to feature American cuisine with worldly influences.”

Which means that shortly after John hangs up the phone, fishermen will finish catching the 20 pounds of Kajiki (Pacific blue marlin) he’s having flown in from Hawaii the next day. The Copper River Salmon should be arriving from Alaska at any moment.

But he’s no one-hit wonder.

Chef John and Thyme The Restaurant have also been featured in the Continental Airlines Magazine, listed as an editor’s pick for Cleveland Magazine for 2008, won the 2008 Silver Spoon Award, and been featured in the Cleveland City Guide—twice.

Thyme is the perfect spot to host a power lunch or prepare for an afternoon of shopping on Medina Square. The restaurant is even equipped with wireless Internet service.

Midday specialties include the Triple Grilled Cheese—smoked rambol, fontina and cheddar cheeses, melded in perfect harmony on thick sourdough bread, then served with smoked tomato bisque. It’s a nod to John’s favorite childhood meal and is an easy choice at just $8.99.

Also consider Pan-Seared Lake Erie Walleye. Chef John serves his walleye with deep fried chorizo and goat cheese ravioli, julienne vegetables and a Jalapeno cream corn sauce. This delish dish is priced at $12.50.

Your evening visit might start with the Lobster Quesadilla—an original Chef John experiment—gone right. It features fresh, poached lobster, Brie cheese, roasted poblanos, caramelized onions, mango salsa and tarragon crème fraiche.

Continue on to the Grilled Double-Cut Pork Chop, which includes black diamond cheddar and potato pierogies (as a tribute to his Polish mom), sautéed spinach and pork jus for $20. Or go with the Macadamia Nut Crusted Grouper with black Chinese rice, a vegetable spring roll and passionfruit beurre blanc for $25.

Complement your luncheon or dinner selection with a boutique wine from the Thyme wine list. Chef John often recommends the Caposaldo Pinot Gris from Italy—a nice table wine with a hint of citrus; Meeker “Lobster Cove” Chardonnay from California—a dry, clean, full white; or the Giesen Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand—a tropical, fruity white with a refreshing acidity.

“We’re a small, independent business and we try to do business with other small businesses,” he says. “In addition to buying produce from the local farmer’s market, I also make it a point to stock wines from lesser-known wineries.”

The menu at Thyme The Restaurant changes with the seasons to showcase fruits, vegetables, meats and fish at their best. Right now, the summer menu is in full bloom. Enjoy it all on the cozy patio that’s flanked by lush planters and climbing flowers.

Menu features change every two weeks. The service, however, always remains the same. It’s excellent.

“Our concept might seem lavish, but it’s really very simple,” Chef John concludes. “Offer outstanding food and wine, exceptional service and tremendous value, take chances, stay edgy, and keep it progressive.”

And if he wins a few prestigious awards along the way—so be it.

Thyme The Restaurant is located at 716 North Court (Route 42), in Medina. Hours are Monday-Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. for lunch, 5:00 p.m.–10:00 p.m. for dinner with the bar open until 1:00 a.m. Friday and Saturday, dinner is served from 5:00 p.m.-11:00 p.m. The phone number is 330-764-4114 and the website is www.ThymeTheRestaurant.com.

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