A New Chef in Town

California sushi phenom Chef John Cathey joins Fairlawn’s Bigeye Japanese Cuisine & Sushi Bar.

By: Ken McEntee
Date: 02/26/2008
Sushi, suggests Chef John Cathey, is an acquired taste.

“I didn’t try sushi until I was 25 years old and I can’t get enough of it now,” admits the new chef at Bigeye Japanese Cuisine & Sushi Bar, in Fairlawn.

Along with the arrival of the California native, comes a brand new expanded Bigeye menu, designed to allow skittish diners a chance to ease into Sushi.

“We’ve added more international kinds of entrées to the menu,” John explains. “They’re perfect for people who are a little hesitant to jump right into the sushi. They can come in and order something more familiar, like our Crispy Glazed Salmon or Kobe Beef Filet and then sample our sushi as an appetizer. Once you try it—you’ll be hooked.”

Of course, if you’re already a sushi connoisseur, you likely know that Bigeye serves only premium quality sushi.

The restaurant is named for “bigeye tuna”—a much finer grade than the more commonly served yellowfin.

Since it opened last summer, Bigeye has become known for its special rolls, like the spicy Crunch Munch—made from crab, cucumber and shrimp topped with crunch and wasabi sauce for $9.25. If you can’t take the heat, you might try the Rainbow Roll, which includes crab, avocado maki with tuna, salmon, shrimp and red snapper topped with avocado for $9.50.

But that’s just a taste of what you’ll find. Along with a choice of 20 sushi specialties, 10 sushi entrées and 25 maki rolls, Bigeye features 24 specialty rolls that you won’t find at any other sushi bar.

“We have combination plates for people who can’t decide on just one style, or simply want to try different things,” John says. “We want people to experiment here. We’d like them to take their time—start off with a sake, relax and take in the atmosphere—then share a couple of rolls and enjoy some outstanding food. This is absolutely the best sushi I’ve had since I left California.”

Bigeye’s warm, rich ambiance is a comfortable supplement to the superb menu. But, John emphasizes, glancing toward the food, “Our artwork is right here.”

He got hooked on sushi back in Santa Barbara, then discovered his love of the restaurant business. After working at several popular restaurants on the California coast, John spent time as the personal chef to actor Rob Lowe.

His unusual California-to-Akron relocation was intended to be a temporary visit with his sister.
“I meant to stay for a couple months, but ended up meeting a lot of cool people here, then I got engaged,” he explains with a smile. “It has worked out perfectly. People in the Akron area like to eat, and I like people who like to eat.”

It also worked out perfectly for Bigeye owners Young Kim and his wife Jenny. They were looking for a creative chef who would introduce more people to sushi while staying true to traditional Japanese cuisine.

“Everything we serve is fresh,” John promises. “The only thing frozen here is the ice. All of our broth and stocks are made from scratch. Our steaks are all hand-cut. I don’t trim them until they are ordered.”

You might start your experience with an appetizer like Yakitori—grilled chicken and pineapple skewers with teriyaki sauce—or Negi Maki—tender thin sliced steak, rolled around green onion, then skewered and served with Bigeye’s special ginger teriyaki sauce, each just $7.25. John’s presentation is so artistic you might find yourself staring in wonder before savoring with delight.

Try a sushi appetizer like the seaweed salad, octopus salad or a Bigeye roll wrapped with cucumbers. One roll features tuna, salmon, white fish, cream cheese and radish sprout with spicy sauce. For the more adventurous sushi lover, Roll B features eel, avocado, radish sprout and eel sauce.

“Our salads are off the hook,” John proclaims. “You won’t find anything like them anywhere.” The Romaine and Cucumber Salad, served in a wonton ring with creamy rice vinegar dressing, is just one of the choices.

And you can eat the bowl.

“I don’t write my recipes down,” John confesses while scanning an array of his creations. “It’s instinctual. I know when something is right.”

The Crispy Glazed Salmon, offered at $21.95, is glazed with Bigeye’s special mango lime sauce and served with fresh seasonal vegetables. The eight-ounce Kobe Beef Filet, for $26.95, is hand-cut then lightly marinated, grilled and served with seasonal vegetables.

For a delicious seafood variety, try the Seafood Bouillabaisse, which includes clams, mussels, shrimp, scallops, sea bass and vegetables sautéed and served piping hot in their special dashi broth for $21.95. All entrees come with your choice of fried rice, steamed rice, or a house salad.

Sushi entrees range from Sushi Regular—featuring eight pieces of Nigiri sushi with a tuna roll for $18.95—to the Sashimi Boat B, which is 76 pieces of sashimi with sea urchin, scallop tobiko with a spider roll for $99.95.

You’ll probably want to share that one.

Along with its extensive dinner menu, Bigeye has plenty to try for lunch, too.

The Bigeye Japanese Cuisine & Sushi Bar is located at 2965 West Market Street, at the Miller Road intersection behind Rite Aid. Reservations are not required, but they are advisable. Call 330-836-4433. Lunch is served Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Dinner hours are Monday through Thursday, from 4:30 to 10:00 p.m.; Friday and Saturday from 4:30 to 11:00 p.m.; and Sunday from 4:30 to 9:00 p.m.

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